How to Prune a Tomato Plant for Bigger Harvest | Bonnie Plants

Do you like to train your plants and check up on them about every sidereal day ? If so, then you may be a natural tomato pruner. Pruning tomato plants is an optional proficiency that some gardeners use to keep plants tidy, manipulate yield size, and even speed ripening. There is one big catch: You should only prune indeterminate varieties, which produce new leaves and flowers continuously through the growing season. If you prune determinate varieties, you may reduce the reap. ( Looking for indeterminate varieties to plant ? Try our Tomato Chooser. ) here are some reasons to prune tomatoes .

Improved airflow and less disease

With fewer leaves, pruned plants are less dense, allowing more air to move through the plants. The leaves dry fast after a rain, so they are less susceptible to the diseases that need drawn-out moisture to develop — something that can be very helpful in moisture climates. Plus, fewer leaves make it easier to spot worm pests that might differently be hidden by a midst canopy .

Bigger fruit

Pruning at the correct time directs energy toward creating and ripening fruit rather of making more leaves. overall, you will probably have fewer yield on a cut implant, but it will be bigger. And, since pruned plants can be put a morsel closer together in the grind because the increase is indeed erect, you ‘ll have room for extra plants to make up the deviation in harvest numbers .

Earlier ripening

When a implant ‘s leaves and physiology have fewer fruit to take care of, that fruit ripens fast. This can very help in brusque season climates, where getting a tomato harvest is often a slipstream against fourth dimension, thanks to early fall frosts.

How to prune tomatoes (indeterminate varieties only!)

You ‘ll want to prune tomatoes throughout the season. here ‘s what to do and when :

At planting

  • Remove the lower leaves when planting then you can bury plants deeply into the soil. If you ‘re planting a Bonnie plant, follow the directions on the wrap.
  • Remove any flowers present at planting time (even if they were on there when you bought the plant), so energy goes into leafy growth instead of fruiting at this early stage

Try to remove suckers while they're young and you can pinch them cleanly off. Photo by Julie Martens Forney.Try to remove suckers while they’re young and you can pinch them cleanly off. Photo by Julie Martens Forney.
Do you know what the different parts of a tomato plant are called?Do you know what the different parts of a tomato plant are called?

Early/mid-season

  • Remove flowers until plants are 12 to 18 inches tall, so plants can direct more energy to the roots.
  • Remove all leafy suckers beneath the first fruit cluster so they won’t slow the development of the fruit. Suckers are the little shoots that form in the spot (called an axil) where the leaf stem attaches to the main growing stem. In northern regions, many gardeners go further, removing all suckers as they appear. In warmer zones, though, experts often recommend practicing what’s known as Missouri pruning, where you pinch off the leaflets on the end of each sucker, leaving only the two base leaflets in place. As these leaves enlarge, they help shade fruit and protect it from sunscald. Try to remove suckers when they’re small enough to pinch with your fingers, so you don’t leave a gaping wound on the stem. If you do have to cut them, use a sharp knife or pruner blade to make a clean cut as close to the main stem as possible without damaging stem tissue.

Late season

  • As the growing season draws to a close, tomato plants are often still loaded with fruit. To speed ripening late in the season, remove the growing tip of each main stem about four weeks before the first expected fall frost. Called “topping,” this type of pruning causes the plant to stop flowering and setting new fruit, and instead directs all sugars to the remaining fruit. This way, the fruit will ripen faster, plus it becomes more likely that the green tomatoes you pick before frost will actually ripen when you bring them indoors. It may be hard to bring yourself to do this, but it will be worth it if you wish for ripe tomatoes! Of course, if you prefer your tomatoes to remain green for use in frying and jelly, you can certainly skip this step.

What if I already have big plants in the garden?

– Growing and pruning to a vertical stake may be not be an option for this class, but both determinate and indeterminate varieties benefit from removing the lower leaves to keep soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the foliation. ( You may already be seeing leaf spots and blotches on the lower leaves. ) Clip off any leaves that are touching the dirty and cover pruning up to a foot from the footing. many tomato diseases, including septoria and early blight, can be deliver in soils, specially in the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic and upper Midwest. As plants get tall, you can continue removing lower leaves up to 18 inches from the land, to help keep the disease from spreading. knead when the leaves are dry to avoid spreading disease.

– For plants supported by cages, you can remove some leaves from the plaza of the implant to increase airflow, which can help prevent and/or behind disease outbreaks. inquiry shows that leaves cheeseparing a yield bunch are the ones that send boodle to that fruit, so when dilute, do not remove leaves directly above and below the bunch. That way, leaves above can help shade the ripen fruit, while leaves below can send sugars to it .

Next time you plant

Pruning works well on impregnable, vigorously growing plants. To give your tomato plants their best shot at impressive growth, start with unseasoned tomato plants from Bonnie Plants® ( expect for the logo ! ). then, be sure to plant them in well-draining, nutrient-rich dirty and feed them regularly with fertilizer. Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® All Purpose In-Ground Soil ( for garden beds ) and Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® All Purpose Container Mix ( for pots ) are both enriched with aged compost and will provide an excellent environment for roots. Pair one of those with Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® All Purpose Plant Nutrition Granules, a continuous-release plant food that feeds the beneficial microbe in the dirty vitamin a well as your plants. Check the label to find out how much and how much to fertilize. Thanks to Steve Bogash of Penn State Extension and Shawn Wright of University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service for their contributions to this article.Article and photos by Julie Martens Forney .
Plants are usually ready to prune once they reach 12 to 18 inches in height. Photo by Julie Martens Forney.Plants are usually ready to prune once they reach 12 to 18 inches in height. Photo by Julie Martens Forney.
To do the Missouri pruning technique on suckers, pinch off the growing tip, leaving only the two lowest leaves.To do the Missouri pruning technique on suckers, pinch off the growing tip, leaving only the two lowest leaves.
About 30 days before the first fall frost is expected, remove growing tips on all steps to help speed the ripening of remaining fruit. Photo by Julie Martens ForneyAbout 30 days before the first fall frost is expected, remove growing tips on all steps to help speed the ripening of remaining fruit. Photo by Julie Martens Forney
To help improve airflow and cut down on the chance of disease, remove the leaves along the bottom 12 inches of the stems of indeterminate tomato plants.To help improve airflow and cut down on the chance of disease, remove the leaves along the bottom 12 inches of the stems of indeterminate tomato plants.

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Category : How To

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