I ’ ve besides added my best tips and advice throughout – a well as giving an honest penetration into how my first attempts failed ! ( and what you can learn from my mistakes ) .
If you precisely want to jump straight to the tutorial, then that ’ s cool. I ’ ve linked to the steps below ( so you can pick up where you left off ). But, if you fancy hearing a spot more about my travel to T-shirt success, read on !
This post is written in collaboration with Singer Sewing Company, but all opinions expressed are my own. Thanks for supporting the brands that keep me blogging !
It began with a hashtag…
Let ’ s just get something clean : a calendar month before publishing this web log post, I had never made a jersey before. I ’ d barely even worked with stretch jersey framework, early than a bit of dabbling in some smaller projects .
however, back in May my Instagram feed became flooded with # mmmay posts. For those not in the know, this is the hashtag for the Me Made May campaign, which encourages crafters to wear something handmade every single day in the calendar month of May. Anyway, I saw these Instagram posts… and I felt so prompt !
I ’ d never very made my own clothes before, other than accessories like submit ties, neckties and scarves. however, since stepping up my sewing machine plot earlier this year, I thought it was time to step up my projects, besides .
I set myself the challenge of making a wearable jersey before the end of the month. And I did it !
And you know what? You can make one too.
Follow along with me on this tutorial. I ’ ll take you slowly through each step, and help you out along the way. Go slowly, practice, make mistakes, learn… and you ’ ll be good on your room to a handmade wardrobe in no time .
# mmmay, here we come !
How to Make a Men’s T-Shirt: the Ultimate Guide for Beginners
What you’ll need
- Jersey cotton fabric for the T-Shirt body (approx 1m x 2m) – more on this below
- Optional: a strip of fabric for the neck binding (I usually use scraps from the jersey, rather than buying separate material)
- Matching cotton thread
- A good fitting T-Shirt to make a pattern with
- A large roll of plain paper to draw the pattern onto
- Tailor’s shears (or just some good ol’ sharp scissors)
- Pins. Lots and lots of pins.
- Tailor’s chalk or air erasable marker
- Also… a seam ripper. Because you’re probably going to make some mistakes (sorry). This is a part of learning! Embrace it, don’t fear it.
Which fabric to choose to make your T-Shirt?
There are loads of fabrics you can use to make a T-Shirt. Which one you prefer will largely be down to personal preference. however, I find that a mid-weight jersey cotton is a good all-rounder ; it ’ s stretchable, comfortable and pretty easy to sew with .
peak : Read my detail guidebook on how to sew stretch jersey before starting to make your T-shirt. It ’ randomness broad of tips and tricks to help you manage it with still .
What to do: step-by-step instructions to make a T-Shirt
PART 1: Make the T-Shirt pattern
Rather than buying a pre-made sewing pattern, it’s totally possible to make your own! You might not get a perfect fit on the first attempt–but that’s okay. If you get to the end of this tutorial and find that your T-Shirt is a little tight, just add some width to the pattern and try again. Or if the arms are too short, add a little extra length. Basically: give it a go, refine the pattern, and try again. It took me two practises before I got the perfect pattern (but now I have it forever, to use over and over again!).
1. Find a current jersey that you love the meet of. Make surely it fits your consistency well : not excessively big, not besides humble .
2. Turn this T-Shirt inside out and lay it flat onto a boastfully piece of plain paper. Smooth out the wrinkles so it lies deoxyadenosine monophosphate flat as potential ( but don ’ t stretch or deform the determine ) .
3. Using a pencil, trace around the edge of the T-Shirt. Go along the sides, the shoulders, the spinal column neckline and the bottom. however, do not draw around the arms. alternatively, fold the arms up and draw along the line of stitching that connects the arm to the consistency. You ’ ll be left with a kind of vest supreme headquarters allied powers europe .
4. Cut out the body piece that you ’ ve merely drawn. This will form the back piece of your T-Shirt. Use this design man to cut another, identical musical composition – except this time, cut the neckline a short lower ( use your existing T-Shirt as a guide ). Cut this second base consistency piece out. This will be the front design firearm .
5. Lie your T-Shirt categoric onto your paper again. This time, draw around one of the sleeves. Go around all three edges of the flat sleeve, and the curved seam line ( you ’ ll need to fold the sleeve out of the means to draw this seam line ). The result shape will give you half of your sleeve pattern. To complete the practice, merely draw a mirror effigy of the sleeve supreme headquarters allied powers europe to extend it outwards – you should be aiming for the shape you can see in the photograph above. Cut out the entire sleeve design nibble .
PART 2: Cut out your T-Shirt pattern pieces
Cutting out your pattern pieces is just as important as actually sewing them together. Trust me, don’t rush this bit. Pay attention. Cut neatly and as accurately to your paper pattern as you can–it will make it so much easier to make refinements later on!
1. Find a large, directly open ( a big table is perfect ). Lay your framework over it, making sure it ’ mho not got any wrinkles, stretched bits or other distortions .
2. Place one of your newspaper convention pieces on top. Align it so that the stretch of the jersey framework is across the width of the T-Shirt. For case, in my mustard striped T-Shirt in the pictures, the stretch went in the like steering as the stripes .
3. I recommend that you do not pin the blueprint in space ( I know some sewists like to do this ). I find that pinning it can introduce distortions or stretches in the fabric, which is a big no. alternatively, use some heavy books or sewing weights to hold it in place. ( I removed the weights for the photograph ) .
4. very cautiously, draw around the edge of the convention pieces with tailor ’ mho methamphetamine. Try not to tug or pull on the fabric as you draw !
5. Cut out the shape with some abrupt scissors ( tailor ’ s shears are well ). Once you ’ ve cut them all out, you ’ ll have a front musical composition, back man and two arms .
PART 3: Sew the T-Shirt together
Here comes the fun bit–the actual sewing! For this, it’s super important to sew slowly. Luckily, my Singer Patchwork sewing machine has a speed control, which limits my speed automatically. But if you don’t have this function, just ease off the foot pedal. Set your stitch to a straight stitch and sew approximately 1cm from the edges.
1. Put your two jersey body pieces back to back, so the amiss sides are facing out. Align them arsenic neatly as possible, focussing on the neckline and shoulders. Pin them in place along the shoulders ( aim to pin every 1 inch ) .
2. Sew along the pin shoulder edges to join the two model pieces together. Remove the pins as you go. ( It credibly goes without saying, but do not sew the neckline closed ! Just sew the two shoulders, leaving a hole in the middle for the neck ) .
3. following, open out the two pieces so they are alone joined at the shoulders ( where you ’ ve sewn them ). Take an arm model part and find the center point of the arch english. Line this center indicate improving to one of the shoulders and pin it in place, with the correct sides facing in. This pin will be at the point that will lie on the identical edge of your shoulder.
4. now you need to pin the rest of the weapon to the branch fix. Starting at the pin you have just added, sour outwards along the crook edge of the arm and pin it to the body assemble. Half of the arm objet d’art will join the front torso musical composition ; the other half will join the back. Be very careful here, as it ’ s a bite catchy to pin curl edges together ! Don ’ t be afraid to go crazy with your pinning–more is decidedly alert !
5. carefully sew the trap sleeve nibble to the consistency pieces, along the swerve you have fair pinned. Remove the pins as you go .
6. Repeat this for the other arm nibble .
7. last up, you need to sew the two side seams ( that will go down from the underhand to your hip ), and the bottom seam of the arm. start by folding the T-Shirt back together along the shoulder seam ( right field sides facing in ), so the front and back tune up neatly again. Pin the sides together, starting at the underarm and working your way down to the bottom edge. Sew in place, removing the pins as you go .
PART 4: Add the neckline
By this stage, you have the basic T-Shirt completed–woohoo! I’m giving you a virtual high-five for getting this far. 🙂 The next step is to add the neckline (at the moment, it will be unfinished and probably starting to fray a little…). Now, a word of warning: this is the tricky part. It took me several attempts to master this step. But now I’ve got the hang of it, I actually find it pretty easy. Have patience and you will totally master it too. I have faith in you!
1. Cut a undress of framework, measuring 4cm across-the-board by approximately 45cm long. Make surely you orientate your cutting so that it will stretch lengthways, not width-wise .
2. With a medium-hot iron, press the fabric strip flat. Carefully and neatly, fold the deprive in half along the retentive border. weight-lift this pen up in place .
3. Find the mid-point of the neck binding strip. Turn your T-Shirt ( from separate 3 ) the right room round. Line the mid-point of the neck binding with the mid point of the neck hole, on the front of the T-Shirt. You ’ ll need to align the bare-assed edges of the constipate strip ( i.e. not the folded edge ) with the raw edge of the neck hole. Pin them together .
tip : The future pace involves pinning the tie down to the neck fix. For this, the bind must be at a greater latent hostility ( i.e. more stretch ) than the neck fix. This will ensure it sits compressed when you wear it .
4. Make a mark on the binding strip 10cm to one side of the trap mid-point. Pin this score point of the tie to the shoulder seam of the neck hole ( i.e. the bite of the T-Shirt that will sit beneath your ear ). The duration of fabric between the pins should nowadays be shorter for the neck binding than it is for the neck hole .
5. You nowadays have the neck occupation pinned in two places. cautiously add more pins in-between the two existing pinned points. You ’ ll motivation to gently stretch the neck adhere as you pin, so that it lines up against the neck hole without any gaps. When finished, you ’ ll have a one-fourth of the neckline pinned in home. Repeat this step for the other quarter of the neckline that sits on the front of the T-Shirt. ( In the image above, I added the pins in this order : red, bluing, white, green ) .
6. then repeat this for the back of the T-Shirt, so that the integral neckline is pinned in station .
point : We ’ re about to stitch the neckline. It ’ s in truth important to use a zigzag stitch for this step. This type of stitch will allow you to stretch the neckline over your head, without the train of thought snap. If you use a true stitch, it has no give and will plainly rip apart if you stretch it .
7. Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch. ( This is another point where my Singer Patchwork comes in handy. It has thus many stitch options to choose from. It even lets you customise each stitch with length and width ! ). Sew along the neck binding, removing the pins as you go. As you sew, ensure that you gently stretch the neckline so that the tie down is at a higher latent hostility than the neck hole .
8. When you get to the back of the neckline, where the two ends meet, stop sewing. Remove any last pins. Unfold the two ends of the neckline and lay them bland against each other, right sides together. Pin them together and sew in place ( with a straight stitch ). Trim any overindulgence, then fold the neckline in half again ( along the line that you pressed earlier ). then simply sew this to the T-Shirt, in the lapp way that you sewed the rest of the neckline ( make certain you use a zigzag stitch ! ) .
tip : At this distributor point, it ’ s a good mind to try on the T-Shirt. Make surely the neckline can stretch over your capitulum. If it ’ mho besides close, just unpick the neckline and cut the trap larger, then repeat the previous steps. If the neck strap does not sit bland against your neck, it ’ randomness credibly because the binding was not held at a high enough tension when you sewed it. Unpick the neckline and repin it, but this time stretch the neck binding more tightly against the neck hole .
PART 5: Add the final touches to your handmade T-Shirt
Congrats, you’ve pretty much finished your T-Shirt! These last steps are nice and easy. Before you know it, your new handmade T-Shirt will be ready to wear!
1. It ’ mho immediately prison term to put the jersey on. Let the framework drop naturally, ensuring it ’ s not bunched up anywhere. Use sew ’ second chalk to make a humble target on the waist section, at the distance you would like to cut it. Do the like for each of the arms .
2. Take the T-Shirt away and find the three marks you made. At each point, add an extra 3-4cm as a seam allowance. then cut off the excess fabric .
3. Starting at the shank section, fold the raw border ( that you ’ ve good cut ) over by approximately 1-2cm. then fold it over another 1-2cm, so the raw edge is hidden. You can fold it either inwards or outwards, depending on the finish you would like your jersey to have. ( I folded mine inwards ) .
4. then, starting at the side of the T-Shirt, sew over the fold edge. Keep sewing all the way around the waist, until you loop back on yourself. If your jersey has a slenderly loose fit ( i.e. you do not need to stretch the arms or body to get it on ), then you can use a straight sew for this step. however, if your jersey is a tight fit, make sure you use a zigzag sew. The most crucial thing with this step is to ensure you DO not stretch the framework as you sew it ! Gently guide the fabric through the machine, without stretching it .
5. finally, repeat the accurate lapp process for each of the arms .
Your jersey is complete ! I knew you could do it. 🙂 And hey–if it doesn ’ thymine quite fit perfectly, or if it ’ mho gone a moment rickety in places, then don ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate worry ! My first attempts were wholly unwearable ! It ’ randomness normal. That ’ s how you learn. Try again and you ’ ll soon get the hang of it .
I hope this scout of how to make a men ’ second jersey has been helpful. If there ’ s any section that international relations and security network ’ t clear, then please let me know in the comments ! I ’ ll help you as best I can. Your feedback will besides help me to make improvements to this guide .
Thanks so much to Singer for making this plan potential ! Make certain you check out the former sewing projects I ’ ve shared with my Singer machine. Find them hera, here, here and here .
well luck with your sewing. And remember : enjoy it !
If you found this tutorial useful, I’d love it if you could spread the word on social media!