How to Frame for a New Door Opening –

How to Frame a New Door Opening

This page covers framing an existing wall to install a new door. Illustrations and instructions include : cutting into the wall, planning the skeleton, and installing a newly king stud. To save prison term and make facility easier, you should use a pre-hung door for this plan. The promotion will have the dimensions for the approximate opening and jamb printed on it to make calculations and measurements simple .

Door Frame Structure

diagram of a wall and door frame
Build a new door frame following the diagram here. The newly frame will support the structural load of the wall when the existing supports have been removed .
The parts that come together to form a door frame include : the cripple scantling, which transfer the wall load from the top plate to the door heading. The header is supported by the jack and king studs along the sides where the load is transferred to the soleplate, which in turn transfers the load to the deck joists and basis .

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drawing demonstrating where to cut wall studs to install a new door frame

Cutting Into the Wall

To start an opening in an home wall, first base remove the plaster of paris or wallboard on both sides of the wall. Leave as much of the original wallboard in stead as potential when doing “ demonstration ” solve to avoid across-the-board wall repairs late .
With the wall covering removed, there are two choices for removing the existing frame to make room for a new door. 1 -the studs that fall within the raw open can be cut to form the necessitate cripples at the peak, or 2 -all the frame can be removed and all newly pieces installed .
Saving the scantling may be the easiest way but both methods have their advantages and disadvantages. Removing them completely will mean an easier cutting speculate but require extra framing and wall compensate. Preserving them can make repairing the wall easier but cutting them off true can be unmanageable .

Saving the Framing

To preserve the cripple stud, forecast where to cut them by adding the jamb stature ( included in the packaging for pre-hung doors ), and the heading size ( calculated below ), plus ½inch jiggle room. Remove the poultice or wallboard to this point and cut a straight agate line across the scantling you want to save .
measure from the finished floor and use a squarely to mark both faces and edges of the wood. Use a handsaw to cut squarely along the lines to ensure a beneficial, flush fit against the header you will be adding. To avoid dressing of the see blade while you ‘re cutting, wedge 2×4 ‘s between the floor and top plate to support the wall burden. If you ‘re working on a load-bearing wall, leave the supports in target until you have installed all the modern frame .

Installing All New Framing

If you want to remove the stud completely and install new ones, wedge in the supports under the top plate and then cut roughly, mid-way down the wall using a reciprocate see. Pry the two pieces exempt from the top and soleplate being careful at the top to avoid breaking a draw of the wallboard or plaster off the ceiling .
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drawing demonstrating where to install a new king stud for a new door frame

Planning the New Frame

design to build your new inning with the jack studs 1 edge wide, and the header ½ column inch higher than the size of the raw door jamb. This extra space will allow for adjusting the side of the newly door jamb for a clean fit .
Choose an existing stud to serve as the first baron stud and then determine if it ‘s necessity to install a new one on the other side, or if one of the stud can be shimmed to do the job. If you ca n’t find two ideal candidates to serve as king stud, which is very probable, you ‘ll have to add a new 2×4 on one side of the modern unfold .

Locating the New Framing

drawing demonstrating the measurements to place a new king stud for a door frame
To find the localization for the second baron scantling, add the jamb width, plus 3 inches for jacks, and 1 inch for jiggle room. measure from the inside of the inaugural king stud and tag this point on the soleplate. Keep this measurement and use it again to cut the header length in the adjacent phase of the frame .
If the next existing wall stud is precisely 1½ inches from the punctuate, you can precisely butt a newly 2×4 against it to act as the irregular king stud but most probably things wo n’t be that simple. If the dot is several inches or more from the mark you can add spacers to build out the new 2×4. To cut the spacers, standard to the soleplate mark and subtract 1½ inches ( thickness of new 2×4 ) from this sum. Cut 2 or 3 pieces of 2×4 to this length and nail them between the new 2×4 and the existing one .

Shimming a Door Frame

drawing demonstrating how to shim a wall stud to install a jack stud
If the stud you want to use is less than 1½ from the mark on the soleplate, you can shim it with boards of the appropriate thickness to build it out. For exemplify, to build out by one column inch, stack 2 pieces of 1/2 plywood and then nail the newfangled mariner dot to these plywood shims .
If the distance is a little more than 1½ inches, stack a new 2×4 with the existing one and wedge thin plywood spacers or shim between them to build out to the proper side. The final location can vary slightly but try to get within 1/8 edge of the score for the best results.

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drawing demonstrating how to install a new stud by toe nailing

Installing the New King Stud

measuring stick from the wall top plate to the soleplate and cut a newly 2×4 to this distance, then install it using two-3 edge deck screws on each end. Drive the screw at an angle to “ toenail ” it to the plates. You can drill navigate holes foremost to make driving these screws smooth, and improve control. This besides makes it easier to reposition in event of error in placement .
If you need to use spacers to support the new 2×4, install them first before putting the stud in home. Start one screw at the acme and bottom of the new stud and then set it in place so it rests squarely against the spacers. Hold the 2×4 in place and drive a screw at each spacers to support it temporarily .
adjacent, make certain the new stud is aligned with the crisscross on the soleplate and drive the bed screw home. Make certain it ‘s plumb using a level hold against the side, and then drive the top screw into the acme plate. ultimately, drive a moment prison guard at the top and bottom, and at each spacer to finish the facility .

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diagram of a door frame header

Building the Header

The size of the header will vary depending on the size of the new window or doorway afford. For model, with openings up to 3 feet wide, 2×4 ‘s may be used to build the header ; for openings up to 5 feet, 2×6 ‘s should be used ; over 5 feet, use 2×8 ‘s .
With the proper size log in hand, use the measurement taken above or add the width of the jamb, plus 3 inches for jack scantling and 1 inch for wiggle board. Cut the baseball bat for the header to this distance. Nail the pieces in concert with a piece of ½in plywood of the lapp size placed between them to create a header the same thickness as the 2×4 rampart frame .
Note: The declared size of log is not the actual size, 2×4 ‘s are actually 1½in. thick and 3½in. wide. The heading sizes here wear lumber of this smaller size in the existing wall. Older houses will have larger framing members, improving to the actual 2 by 4 inches. Always measure your frame to be certain .

Installing the Parts

nailing diagram for new door frame
measure from the top of the header to the buttocks of the top plate, and cut the cripple stud to this duration. Install one new one for every 3 feet or less of opening .
Add the acme of the newly jamb plus ½inch and cut two new jack stud to this length. Slide the meet header into stead butted against the cripples, and wedge the jacks under it for irregular back. Square all the fresh framing members, and fasten the jacks to the king stud using 3 inch screws, driven at about 12 inch intervals .
Drive screws, toenailed at an angle, through the cripples and into the top of the heading. besides, toenail through the face of the header and into the kings on both sides of the wall. finally, toe through the border of the jacks and into the soleplate. Make sure none of the sleep together heads are leave protruding so they do n’t disrupt the initiation of newly wall corporeal and door casings .Close Window
drawing demonstrating cutting a wall soleplate with a handsaw

Cut the Soleplate

After the framing has been installed, cut the soleplate to accept the new door. Use a handsaw to cut through the 2×4 plate proper adjacent to the jack stud. protect floors from the see blade with a scrap patch of plywood or a like, thin fabric. Cut the plate, stopping about 1|8in. from the floor, and use a chisel and hammer to finish the job .

Finish with a Chisel

drawing demonstrating using a chisel to remove remnants of a soleplate
Make a second cut with the saw, about half an inch or more from the stud. Remove the waste to form a transmit boastfully enough to use the cheat to cut through the remainder of the soleplate. Pry the loose section of soleplate absolve from the shock and discard it. With the soleplate removed, the open is quick for the new pre-hung doorway.

After the doorway has been installed, finish the shock by filling any holes where the soleplate was with woodwind putty, and refinish the floor to match the rest. If the floor is besides boisterous to refinish, use a threshold saddle to cover it .
In some houses, the inside walls may have been installed before the finished shock. If this is the case, there will be a gap in the deck where the soleplate was attached to the sub-floor. Remove the soleplate as described above and fill the break in the floor using a piece of wood the like thickness of the finished floor, normally ¾in for solid wood floors. Cover this rough piece with a saddle shape .

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